Gecko, my dost, and other wonders of nature

Rahul Mishrarsquos Spring 2024 collection could be just what the doctor ordered for entomophobiacs whose love for highfashion outweighs their fear of anthropoids Scarabs dragonflies beetles and bees were crawling for space on his creations while giant geckos slithered across the torso and groinMishra was at it again This time he turned to DH Lawrencersquos 1920s poem Snake and convinced even the squeamish to see creepycrawlies as superheroes with wings Superheroes was also the title of his collection at the recentlyconcluded Paris Haute Couture Week ldquoThey are equal architects of this planet and our gaze needs to change towards them and we must allow them to stay harmoniously in their settlements and coexist with humansrdquo Mishra said in a press noteFashion becomes beguiling when it offers up a narrative And right from his Fall 2019 collection which marked Mishrarsquos entry into the world of international couture he has been harnessing the power of storytelling through timehonoured craftsmanship while addressing pressing modern concerns of climate change and the environment His Superheroes collection sat between nature and silken glamour showcasing the best of Indiarsquos hand embroideries like zari ektaar badla glass beads and rhinestones to achieve a movement of biomimicry within the motifsOne model came veiled in a shimmering black circle of net on which sat an embroidered dragonfly followed by a litany of evening dresses in lattice cutwork sprouting sequins This was Technicolorexotica complete with models walking barefoot draped in safas glitter trousers we also caught the oneoff sareeSeason after season Mishra has moved the goal posts in highfashion by lending an Indian heart to modernist ergonomic styles In telling the story of Superheroes however Mishra was digging in the mainstream mentality even as the garments oscillated between haute couture and luxury precirctWatching Gaurav Guptarsquos fashion shows requires the viewer to suspend disbelief Like in the movie theatre when the lights go down and the audience shuts out the real world to surrender to fantasy While his show lasts we can pretend that there is a bit of a glamazon thing going on in each one of us that those brims and swoops of chiffon can wash away our existential angst Gaurav Gupta pitched his Spring 2024 couture designs between art and fashion solid and liquid and perhaps given the brandrsquos reputation chiselled tailoring and surface embossingFor his third outing on the haute couture calendar Gupta presented a collection titled Aarohanam ascension in Sanskrit to sartorially catch the spirit of the Kundalini spiritual awakening Much like the movement of a snakersquos journey as it sheds old skin to emerge reborn sharpshouldered tuxedo jackets and GraecoRomanstyle evening gowns moved from shades of light to darker hues of black orange and blue silverypearlescent textures crunched to surface with badla mukaish and zardozi embroideryThe most striking ensemble was not strictly an ensemble but an idea a brass hued breastplate with cupped hands fingers in gyan knowledge mudra Joining the divine finger or thumb with the finger of the self index finger it is said to draw in wisdom expand possibilities and free us from limitations Whatrsquos not to likeThe Vaishali S textilefirst brand of couture is one that cements the spot humans occupy within nature Her approach is as wild as her subject as she deconstructs established clothing tropes while employing metallic Maheshwari silks and playing with densely layered intricate mesh cutwork micropleats cording and appliqueacutes It is an almost armoured attitude to glamorous dressing without beating down the power drumAn evening gown or a bridal lehenga Vaishali S left the choice to viewers as she showcased a cocktail ensemble celebrating mogra budsHer third collection at Paris Haute Couture Week I am Nature comprised 32piece looks revealing her triedandtrue design vocabulary but with intended commercial sense The styling direction for the collection clearly indicated that it was IndoWestern bridal fusionmdashkickflare hemmed dressestunics paired with a hybrid of palazzos and shararas The last look was the ultimate white wedding teasemdasha fishnet skirtlehenga and cord bodice accentuated with 3D mogra buds